but the ladies all fitting in the open air, expofes them to great inconveniences; for there is but one canopy for the imperial family; and the first night it was reprefented, a heavy fhower of rain happening, the opera was broke off, and the company crouded away in fuch confufion, that I was almoft squeezed to death. But if their operas are thus delightful, their comedies are in as high a degree ridiculous. They had but one play-houfe, where I had the curiofity to go to a German comedy, and was very glad it happened to be the story. of Amphitrion. As that fubject has been already handled by a Latin, French, and English poet, I was curious to fee what an Auftrian author would make of it. I understood enough of that language to comprehend the greatest part of it, and befides I took with me a lady that had the goodness to explain to me every word. The is to take a box which holds four, for yourself and company. The fixed price is a gold ducat. I thought the house very low and dark; but I confefs the comedy

way

admirably

admirably recompenfed that defect. I never laughed fo much in my life. It begun with Jupiter's falling in love out of a peep-hole in the clouds, and ended with the birth of Hercules. But what was most pleasant was the ufe Jupiter made of his metamorphofis, for you no fooner faw him under the figure of Amphitrion, but instead of flying to Alcmena, with the raptures Mr. Dryden puts into his mouth, he fends for Amphitrion's taylor, and cheats him of a laced coat, and his banker of a bag of money, a jew of a diamond ring, and befpeaks a great fupper in his name; and the greatest part of the comedy turns upon poor Amphitrion's being tormented by these people for their debts. Mercury ufes Sofia in the fame manner. But I could, not eafily pardon the liberty the poet has taken of larding his play with, not only indecent expreffions, but fuch grofs words as I don't think our mob would fuffer from a mountebank. Befides, the two Sofias very fairly let down their breeches in the direct view of the boxes, which were full

of

of people of the first rank, that seemed very well pleased with their entertainment, and affured me this was a celebrated piece. I fhall conclude my letter with this remarkable relation, very well worthy the serious confideration of Mr. Collier. I won't trouble you with farewell compliments, which I think generally as impertinent, as curtifies at leaving the room when the vifit had been too long already.

LET

LETTER IX.

To the Countefs of

Vienna, Sept. 14, O. S.

THOUGH I have fo lately troub

led you, my dear fifter, with a long letter, yet I will keep my promise in giving you an account of my firft going to court. In order to that ceremony, I was fqueezed up in a gown, and adorned with a gorget and the other implements thereunto belonging, a dress very inconvenient, but which certainly shows the neck and fhape to great advantage. I cannot forbear giving you fome description of the fashions here, which are more monftrous and contrary to all common sense and reason, than 'tis poffible for you to imagine. They build certain fabrics of gauze on their heads, about a yard high, confifting of three or four stories, fortified with numberlefs yards of heavy rib

bon.

bon. The foundation of this ftructure is a thing they call a Bourlé, which is exactly of the fame shape and kind, but about four times as big as thofe rolls our prudent milk-maids make use of to fix their pails upon. This machine they cover with their own hair, which they mix with a great deal of false, it being a particular beauty to have their heads too large to go into a moderate tub. Their hair is prodigioufly powdered to conceal the mixture, and fet out with three or four rows of bodkins (wonderfully large, that ftick out two or three inches from their hair) made of diamonds, pearls, red, green, and yellow ftones, that it certainly requires as much art and experience to carry the load upright, as to dance upon May-day with the garland. Their whalebone petticoats outdo ours by feveral yards circumference, and cover fome acres of ground.

You

may eafily fuppofe how this extraordinary dress sets off and improves the natural ugliness, with which God Almighty has been pleased to endow them, generally speaking. Even the

VOL. I.