LETTER XIV.

To the Countess of

Prague, Nov. 17, O.S. 1716.

I HOPE my dear fifter wants no

new proofs of my fincere affection for her; but I am fure if you do, I could not give you a ftronger than writing at this time, after three days, or more properly speaking, three nights and days, hard poft travelling.-The kingdom of Bohemia is the moft defert of any I have feen in Germany. The villages are so poor, and the post-houses fo miferable, that clean ftraw and fair water are bleffings not always to be met with, and better accommodation not to be hoped for. Though I carried my own bed with me, I could not fometimes find a place to fet it up in; and I rather chose to travel all night, as cold as it is, wraped up in my furs, than go into the common ftoves, which are filled with a mixture of all forts of ill fcents.

This

This town was once the royal feat of the Bohemian Kings, and is still the capital of the kingdom. There are yet fome remains of its former fplendour, being one of the largest towns in Germany, but, for the most part, old built and thinly inhabited, which makes the houses very cheap. Those people of quality who cannot easily bear the expence of Vienna, chufe to refide here, where they have affemblies, mufic, and all other diverfions, (thofe of a court excepted) at very moderate rates, all things being here in great abundance, especially, the best wild fowl I ever tafted. I have already been vifited by fome of the most considerable ladies, whofe relations I know at Vienna. They are dreffed after the fashions there, after the manner that the people at Exeter imitate those of London; that is, their imitation is more exceffive than the original. 'Tis not easy to defcribe what extraordinary figures they make. The perfon is fo much loft between head-drefs and petticoat, that they have as much occafion upon their backs, "This is a woman,”

to write

VOL. I.

for the information of travellers, as every fignpoft painter had to write, " This is a Bear." I will not forget to write to you again from Drefden and Leipzig, being much more folicitous to content your curiofity, than to indulge my own repofe,

I am, &c.

LET

LETTER

To the Countess of

XV.

Leipzig, Nov. 21, O.S. 1716.

I BELIEVE, dear fifter, you will eafily forgive my not writing to you from Drefden, as I promised, when I tell you, that I never went out of my chaise from Prague to this place, You may imagine how heartily I was tired with twenty-four hours poft-travelling, without fleep or refreshment (for I can never fleep in a coach however fatigued.) We passed by moon-fhine, the frightful precipices that divide Bohemia from Saxony, at the bottom of which runs the river Elbe; but I cannot fay, that I had reafon to fear drowning in it, being perfectly convinced, that in cafe of a tumble, it was utterly impoffible to come alive to the bottom. In many places the road is fo narrow,.. that I could not discern an inch of space between the wheels and the precipice. Yet I was

fo good a wife not to wake Mr. Wy, whọ was faft afleep by my fide, to make him share in my fears, fince the danger was unavoidable, till I perceived by the bright light of the moon, our poftillions nodding on horseback, while the horses were on a full gallop. Then indeed I thought it very convenient to call out to defire

them to look where they were going. My calling waked Mr W -y, and he was much more furprised than myself at the fituation we were in, and affured me that he paffed the Alps five times in different places, without ever having gone a road fo dangerous. I have been told fince, that 'tis common to find the bodies of travellers in the Elbe, but thank God that was not our destiny, and we came fafe to Dresden, so much tired with fear and fatigue, it was not poffible for me to compofe myself to write. After paffing these dreadful rocks, Drefden appeared to me a wonderfully agreeable fituation, in a fine large plain on the banks of the Elbe. I was very glad to stay there a day to reft myself. The town is the neatest I

have